American Green Tree Frog

American Green Tree Frog

Also known as New World Tree Frog (Hyla cinerea)

Author: John Wellington

Updated: April 10, 2018

Search Icon 15 Comments

Keeping American green tree frogs as pets is an enjoyable experience for beginners and experts alike. This species is hardier than most tree frogs which makes them easy to care for. There are some necessities and daily attention is required, but only minimal once their enclosure is set up.

This guide will show you everything you need to know to properly care for American green tree frogs. From setting up their cage, feeding, reproduction, and everything in-between.

American green tree frogs are common in the Southeastern United States and because of this, many people catch them in the wild and bring them home as pets. I personally don’t have a problem with; this species’ conservation status is “Least Concern” afterall. I do, however, suggest buying captive bred frogs instead. Frogs caught in the wild have a difficult time adapting to cages, it’s impossible to determine their age, and they often carry diseases.

In the Wild

American green tree frogs are found throughout the Southeastern United States. They have been found as far east as Delaware and New Jersey and as far west as central Texas.

This species grows up to 2.5 inches in the wild. They enjoy spending their time in bodies of water with dense vegetation. Tall grasses, cattails and even trees growing from small ponds, streams, lakes, and marshes are the ideal habitats for the American green tree frog.

American Green Tree Frog Cage Setup

When creating a captive habitat for American green tree frogs, it’s important to remember they are an arboreal species that prefer living in trees.  This means vertical space is more important than the width or depth of the enclosure.

Provide plenty of climbing opportunities, places to hide, and basking area on the bottom, middle and towards the top of their tank. Frogs like to feel safe, having several nearby places to hide. This can be accomplished using leafy decorations, rocks, and branches. Because American green tree frogs are small and light-weight, most plants, real or fake, will offer hiding and climbing opportunities. Branches, when placed properly, allow for basking and climbing.

Here is a quick overview of what you need.

  • Glass terrarium 18″ (width) x 18″ (depth) x 24″(height) or bigger
  • A large, shallow water dish
  • Branches and plant decorations for climbing
  • Heat lamp for creating a nice temperature gradient
  • A non-particulate substrate
  • In-cage thermometer
  • Spray bottle for misting

Cage decorations should be sturdy enough to support the weight of your pet(s). Ensure rocks and branches cannot be moved by your frog. You don’t want your beloved tree frog to get crushed by a poorly-placed decoration!

As for the type and dimensions of the enclosure, I suggest using an all-glass terrarium at least 18″ (width) x 18″ (depth) x 24″ (height) with a screen lid. You can get away with something a little smaller but I don’t recommend it. American green tree frogs can grow up to 2.5 inches and they need some room to jump and climb.

If you decide to house 2 or more in the same cage you might consider something 24″ (width) x 18″ (depth) x 36″ (height) or bigger. Regardless of how many you’re keeping, the bigger the cage, especially in height, the better off your frogs will be.

American Green Tree Frog Cage Setup

Photo credit: Gav82 @ RFUK

UVB lighting is not required but a basking light or lamp is recommended for heating. American green tree frogs do well at room temperature but giving them a nice temperature gradient within their cage is beneficial.


UVB lighting is not required for this species because they’re nocturnal. A 5.0 UVB light can be used during the day-time hours to keep live plants healthy. Just be sure to set the light on a timer to provide your pets with a day and night cycle around 12 hours each. During summertime, the day-time cycle can be increased up to 14 hours.

To be 100% clear on this; American green tree frogs do not need UVB light. A UVB light is only needed for the health of live plants within the enclosure.


Room temperature is a great starting point for American green tree frogs. That, of course, depends on what you consider “room temperature” is. The recommended temperature for this species is between 70 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. The temperature can drop slightly during the night-time hours but no lower than 65 ° F.

A nice temperature gradient is recommended for American green tree frogs. A temperature gradient is where one part of the cage is the maximum heat and the opposite side of the cage is the minimum heat.

To create the temperature gradient, place a basking lamp above the enclosure but not directly on the screen lid. Sitting the light on the lid can be hazardous for your frog if it comes into contact with the hot surface. Instead, suspend the light 1 – 2 inches above the lid. Once the lamp is installed, use a thermometer to check the temperature of the highest basking area. Adjust the light so the basking area is around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The bottom of your American green tree frog’s cage should be no lower than 70 degrees.

An under-tank heater is another option for heating your frogs enclosure. Whichever route you take, be sure to use a thermometer to ensure the temperature is correct. Here are some points to remember:

  • Don’t place heating lamp directly on the screen lid.
  • Under-tank heating pads are okay – just be careful, don’t place it on flammable materials.
  • Use an in-tank thermometer to check the temperature.
  • Creating a temperature gradient is great.


American green tree frogs are ferocious eaters and because of this, impaction is a potential problem. Impaction occurs when a substrate is accidentally consumed and cannot be digested. Tiny pebbles, for example, can be eaten by accident when your frog goes after a cricket. The cricket will be digested but the tiny pebble will not! Over time, the number of pebbles in your frog’s stomach will cause severe injury and death.

For this reason, I don’t recommend small rocks or other particulate substrates. American green tree frogs are arboreal so they will spend the majority of their time in the vertical spaces of their enclosure; so the substrate isn’t a huge concern so long as it’s not small enough to be eaten.

I recommend using coconut fiber because it’s safe for most reptiles, it’s cheap and looks good too. You can buy bricks of compressed coconut fiber online or at local pet stores for around $5. Another option is reptile carpet which is easy to clean, cheap, and looks decent.

Water Quality

Using toxin-free water with a neutral pH balance and natural minerals is a must for all amphibians. If you’re not familiar with this, I recommend reading the complete water guide in the guide section of this website.

With that in mind, American green tree frogs are not great swimmers so a large, shallow water dish is all that is recommended. It should hold enough water to sustain them for a few days.


The humidity level inside your frog’s terrarium should be around 50% or a little higher. Mist the cage daily. An all-glass terrarium and quality substrate will help retain humidity. Mist the cage daily and invest in a decent thermometer & humidity gauge to keep your frog comfortable!

American Green Tree Frog Diet

American green tree frogs are fun to watch eating because of their insatiable appetites and quick response time. They often respond instantly when food is introduced into their cage, making quick work of it and quickly looking for more.

You can feed them a variety of insects including crickets, worms, roaches, and even the occasional moth. A balanced diet consists of a variety of different insects but in captivity, the bulk of their food will likely come from crickets. Feed your tree frog a few gut-loaded crickets each day. In addition to gut-loading crickets, you need to dust crickets with vitamin and mineral supplements 3 – 4 times per week.

Keep a close eye on your American green tree frog so you can adjust their diet accordingly. Remove crickets left in the cage several hours after feeding. Over-eating usually isn’t a problem, it’s the nutritional quality of their diet you need to worry about. This is why they need gut-loaded crickets and supplements.


Female American green tree frogs breed one time per year. The mating season lasts from April through August and the typical clutch contains up to 400 eggs. The temperature, rainfall, and length of a day all play a role in determining the beginning of breeding season. In captivity, however, rainfall is difficult to mimic.


Males are slightly smaller and have a baggier vocal sac, yellowish in color. When you hear your frogs singing at night, find a way to watch them or flip on the lights; the male’s vocal sac may still be inflated. Look for an enlarged, for lack of better words, bubble-shaped throat.


I’ve personally never bred American green tree frogs and I cannot find a reputable source with this information. When making these guides, I search for people with first-hand experience and I’ve yet to find someone to help with this section.

What I have come across is information regarding the length of day, heat, and rainfall affecting breeding. For captive American green tree frogs, you can attempt to mimic these elements by misting more often, increasing their daytime cycle and raising the heat a few degrees.

When your frogs begin mating, they will assume the amplexus position where the male grasps the female around her body. The eggs pass through female’s cloacal openings while the male fertilizes them outside the body.

In the wild, eggs are laid among moss, logs, and sticks but in captivity, they will be attached to decorations in the water or along the walls of the container. The eggs will hatch within 7 days.

Tadpoles & Froglets

The little tadpoles can be fed the commercial aquatic frog & tadpole pellets, nutritional lettuce, and other organic leafy greens. Adding an Indian almond tree leaf is a great way to add tannins to the water as well as provide shelter for the tadpoles. The water temperature can remain between 65 – 75 degrees Fahrenheit and over the course of 60 days, your tadpoles will develop into froglets.

As their rear legs fully develop, their tail will slowly disappear and their color will transition from black to green. Your American green tree frog will fully mature within 12 months.

Handling American Green Tree Frogs

If you’re looking for a frog to carry around, an American green tree frog is not the best choice. Most frogs are kept for display and observation. Having said that, I understand you’ll need to clean their cage and transfer them from time-to-time. This is perfectly acceptable.

I have a few tips and tricks for doing this. The first is this: Before handling, wash your hand thoroughly or wear gloves. Frogs have delicate skin and chemicals and oils from your hands are harmful to them. My second tip is this: Place your frog into a small container before doing extensive cleaning. Don’t worry about this unless you need to change the substrate or clean for more than 5 minutes. For more information, check out our frog handling post in the guide section.

Infographic for American Green Tree Frogs

Infographic on American Green Tree Frogs


15 Questions & Answers

  • Lora

    Hi John! I have had an american green tree frog for a little over 6 months now. His name is Louie! He is brown and not bright green almost all the time. I have read that this can be due to temp and humidity, but the temp and humidity is within the ranges you listed and his color still does not change to green. Is this just his color or could this be a sign of a health issue?
    Thanks for the help!

    • John Wellington

      Hey Lora! You know, changing colors is an interesting topic. Sunlight makes a difference and so does their surroundings. One time I had a Red eyed tree frog fall asleep half way in the shade and half under the light. After turning the light off I noticed her skin was a brighter shade of green where she was exposed to the light. Meanwhile she slept through the whole thing lol. What are you feeding Louie? Have you been dusting with vitamins and calcium?

  • Michele

    Hi, John. Thanks for this fantastically informative site! We just got an American green tree frog for our 12-year-old (first pet ever), set up a ZooMed 12x12x18” vivarium, and have followed all your directions. So far, so good! Two questions, though:

    We want to add some live plants. Are avocado plants (i.e. baby trees we sprouted from seeds) OK? I can’t find them on any of the amphibian-safe lists. I know our frog won’t nibble on it, but is there any other reason not to use it? Avocados are widely grown in Florida, and the vivarium is a perfect environment for them.

    Second, I know AGTF’s are not swimmers and only need a shallow water bowl, but for humidity purposes (and because it looks cool) is there any reason not to put in a small waterfall, e.g. the small Exo-Terra one (about 9 x 7 x 6”)? The bottom is about the same size as the fake rock bowl. Thank you!

    • John Wellington

      Hey Michele! Great questions. I’m not an expert on the subject of plants and toxins they produce but I’ll try to help. I did some research and found that Avacados have a fungicidal toxin called “Persin”. Some animals have bad reactions after eating the leaves or bark. While frogs probably won’t be eating the leaves, they could still be in danger. Amphibians have semi-permeable skin – they can easily absorb toxins through their skin. According to Wikipedia, Persin is harmful to birds, rabbits, mice, cats, and dogs. There is no mention of frogs. To err on the side of caution, I would not put an avocado in its vivarium.

      A waterfall would be a great addition to your tree frog’s vivarium! It won’t hurt them and I couldn’t agree more, they look awesome!

      • Michele Yanow

        Thanks, John. So, no avocado. How about mango or citrus (grapefruit, lemon, orange), also sprouted at home? Or just let me know your recommended resource for the plant-toxicity-to-animals info.

      • Michele Yanow

        Update: whoa, I just found this Very long list of frog no-no plants from Australia:

        It includes cherry trees, so now I’m concerned. The pet store staff said any kind of fruit tree branch was ok in the vivarium as a climbing stick, so I took a couple of nice, twisty, ones leftover from pruning from my cherry tree; cleaned, sanded & sterilized them in the oven; and our frog has been happily climbing and basking on them all week. What do you think? Are Australian tree frogs pretty similar to ours? Is this guy’s list relevant? Thanks again!!

      • John Wellington

        Don’t get too hasty or worried 🙂 That’s a long list of plants and the effects of the toxins on amphibians isn’t well documented. At least not that I can find. One would really need to research each type of plant/tree they’re putting into the vivarium. My favorite branches/wood are cork bark, drift wood, mopani, bamboo, grapevine, and manzanita wood. I’ve even used branches from elm trees after cleaning, sanding and sterilizing them (like you mentioned). As for plants – Golden pathos, mosses, bromeliads, orchids, ferns, etc

        I found two other sources for you to take a look at. One is this PDF and the other is on this website. It may be a bit more helpful being based in the US.

  • Kim

    A week ago we noticed a green tree frog hanging out on the siding by our front door. He’s been there ever since. It’s now getting colder at night, 57 degrees last night, and I’m worried about his survival.

    • John

      Your buddy should be just fine. American Green Tree Frogs hibernate during the winter months.

  • Lisa Johnson

    Could I use ivy planted in a small pot in my aquarium? Would these plants be toxic to my frogs?

    • John

      Hey, Lisa! I believe Ivy plants in the Hedera Genus are on the dangerous list. A golden pathos, which is sometimes called an ivy, is perfectly fine! Do you know the species?

  • Amanda

    okay I have my American green tree frog tank setup. But I am having a hard time keeping the temp. up and the humidity up. what light or lights do I need to get? and is there something that I can do to keep it in? please help. Thank you.

    • John

      Hey, Amanda! To keep the temperature up, I recommend getting either a heating mat or a ceramic heat lamp. The heat lamp will cause the enclosure to dry out faster but they usually do better at keeping up the temperature. Check out this post. A thermometer / hygrometer device will help you track the temp & humidity. As for the humidity, there are several devices that can help; misters or foggers. Both of which can be expensive. I’ve found the best way to keep up the humidity is to mist the tank with water using a cheap spray bottle. Doing this twice per day should be enough for an American green tree frog. Finally, the light just needs to provide them with a day and night cycle. Most frogs benefit from a small amount of UVB lighting but that’s debatable. I’ve used the Exo Terra day & night LED light for red-eyed tree frogs for several months and it worked alright. I don’t recommend that product but a simple LED should suffice. Check this post for more info about the lights.

  • David Sullivan

    I have read your information and being fact orientated, I found it to be of good SATs.
    In breading, category, I am adding real tree branches with Java moss attached to a 1 gallon corner tank in the 29 gallon primary holding tank,
    I believe this will encourage the breading of this frog.
    If you stop and think, when you visit a wet or marchy area, you can smell a marchy Oder the Java moss provides this sent, and can be grown out of the water if humidity is in the 75 to 85 percent range. I am sure this will have the positive effect on their breading.

    • John

      Hey, David! I’m glad you enjoyed the breeding section. I agree with you on the Java moss; anything that helps to recreate their natural environment will be beneficial.

      I still haven’t found anyone with first-hand experience in breeding American green tree frogs – Sorry I can’t be more helpful. If I had to guess, I’d say that cycling the frogs will play the biggest role in whether or not you can get them to reproduce. A nice winter season followed by a spring season with higher temps, more rainfall (water, humidity, etc) and more food.

      I wish you the best of luck, my friend! Please, keep us updated! I’d love to know whether or not you’re able to get some little tadpoles.

  • Leave a Reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *