Despite all this, dart frogs make great pets in captivity. Hence the reason for this care guide. On this page, I’ll do my best to cover all the information you’ll need to successfully raise happy, healthy dart frogs. From the equipment you’ll need to the diet and more, you will find it all here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Poison Dart Frog Habitat Setup<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A dart frog setup is one I don’t recommend for complete newbies. These frogs require high humidity and the recommended equipment gets expensive. If you’re new to amphibian care and can’t live without getting a poison-dart frog as your first pet, that’s fine – just be sure to do your research first!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A quality setup includes a terrarium, a dependable misting system, lights, a drainage layer, and microfauna. That’s not everything, mind you. I’ll go into greater detail below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Despite the initial cost, upkeep isn’t bad and the enjoyment you’ll get from keeping dendros is well worth it in my opinion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here is a list of the items I recommend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Terrarium \/ Enclosure<\/strong> – You’re going to need an enclosure. The size largely depends on the number of frogs you’re keeping together. Many dart frogs are best kept in pairs and require a minimum of a 29-gallon tank while some species do best in a large 36x18x18. I recommend a 24x18x18 Exo Terra for most setups holding 2 – 4 dart frogs.<\/li>
- Substrate<\/strong> – Because poison dart frogs require high humidity, it’s important to utilize your substrate to retain water in order to hold higher humidity within the cage. But the substrate can’t hold water to the point where it becomes soggy and stagnant. Those conditions promote mold and bacteria growth. You’ll want to utilize moss on top of an ABG mix<\/a> on top of a drainage layer. Leaf-litter is nice as well.<\/li>
- Drainage Layer<\/strong> – A drainage layer allows excess water to drain through the substrate to the bottom of the enclosure. This consists of a mesh layer between the substrate and the bottom layer. The bottom layer is where the water sits until you pump it out. Many people use hydroballs or something similar. I’m personally a fan of matala filter media. <\/li>
- Plants, Branches, Decorations<\/strong> – Whether you use live or fake plants is up to you. I recommend live plants, especially if you’re going for a naturalistic setup. Either way, you’ll need some plants and branches to decorate the terrarium<\/a>.<\/li>
- Lighting<\/strong> – Using the correct lighting is a must if you plan to grow live plants. Aside from that, dart frogs need a day and night cycle. 12 hours or day\/light and 12 hours of dark\/night. T5 grow lights are popular in the trade while others choose to use LED bulbs or fixtures. <\/li>
- Misting System or Fogger<\/strong> – Because the humidity needs to stay above 80%, a recommended product is a misting system<\/a> or fogger<\/a>. They can get expensive, too. They’re well worth it, though.<\/li>
- Thermometer \/ Hygrometer<\/strong> – One of the most important things to check is the temperature and humidity. You need a thermometer \/ hygrometer combo<\/a> for this. <\/li>
- Thermostat<\/strong> – This may not be needed depending on your setup and the average temperature in your home. In case you do, I’ve created a guide for the best thermostats for terrariums<\/a>.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Most people who keep dart frogs go for a bioactive vivarium setup. Something with real, living plants and even microfauna that serve as janitors and an additional food source. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is a whole topic by itself. If you’re new and want to know more, I suggest watching some YouTube videos about the topic of vivariums.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Temperature<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Dart frogs do not tolerate fluctuations in temperature very well.<\/strong> It’s important to keep a close eye on the temperature in their enclosure and keep it within the recommended range. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Temperature range between 68 – 76 \u00b0F<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
This is a great temperature range for most Dendrobates. They will tolerate short periods of time in the low 80s but don’t let it happen very often. Anything at or above 85 degrees will quickly lead to injury or death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A great way to monitor the temperature is by using a thermometer. There are several companies selling thermometer\/hygrometer combo meters that measure the temperature and humidity. The readings are output on a small digital display and they’re relatively inexpensive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Humidity<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
One of the reasons I consider poison dart frogs difficult to care for is because they require near 100% humidity (80% – 100% to be precise).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Humidity range between 80% – 100%<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
In order to achieve this, you’ll have to make use of moss, the correct substrate, lots of misting (preferably via a misting or fogger system), and you may even need to cover the top of the terrarium with a piece of glass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Doing this can cause problems with air circulation and mold and bacteria growth in the substrate. This is probably the main reason I rank poison dart frogs in the “difficult to care for” category. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Humidity levels at or below 50% for a sustained period of time will result in injury or death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lighting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The main reason for lighting is to provide a day and night cycle for your frogs. Roughly 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. Place the lights on a timer so the day and night cycle is fluctuating each day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- A day and night cycle of 12 hours each. UVB is not required.<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
UVB isn’t considered a requirement for poison dart frogs although studies suggest UVB is beneficial for some amphibians. It helps regulate vitamin D3 which is good for healthy bones and other health benefits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Despite this, most keepers don’t provide a UVB light and instead use calcium with D3 supplements. Should you decide to provide a UVB light for your dart frogs, a low-powered one is recommended. Sources under 5% UVB are ideal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lighting becomes more important when you’ve got live plants in your enclosure. Live plants require special lighting to keep them growing healthy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Grow lights are increasing in popularity and many keepers go with T5 bulbs while others prefer LED grow lights. Whichever you choose, make sure they’re not overheating the habitat and you’re still sticking to the day and night cycle of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Substrate<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
You have plenty of options when it comes to the substrate. Ideally, you’ll want something that retains a fair amount of moisture. This will help keep the humidity where you want it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- ABG Mix, Moss, and Leaf Litter<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
The downside to moisture-retaining substrates is that they can become a problem for a terrarium without a drainage layer. Substrate sitting in moisture can result in mold growth over time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this reason, you should put your substrate on top of a drainage layer. A drainage layer<\/strong> allows water to drain below the substrate layer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Once enough water has collected below the substrate layer you can drain it off or otherwise remove it from the enclosure. This keeps the substrate from becoming saturated with water which would cause problems over time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As for the substrate itself, I suggest trying an ABG mix<\/strong> if you intend to grow live plants. ABG stands for “Atlanta Botanical Garden”. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you decide to go with an ABG mix, I recommend doing some more research on the topic but one of the popular ABG recipes is listed below:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
- 1 part peat moss<\/li>
- 2 parts tree fern<\/li>
- 1 part sphagnum moss<\/li>
- 2 parts orchid bark<\/li>
- 1 part lump charcoal<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
In addition to the substrate of your choosing, using moss<\/strong> will help greatly with water retention and thus humidity. Moss is great on branches, rocks or simply sitting on the substrate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Leaf litter<\/strong> is recommended as well. It helps complete a naturalist habitat but it also provides a food source for springtails and isopods (read more about this in the diet section below). It also gives your beloved dart frogs more hiding spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Hiding spots created by leaf litter is beneficial because it helps your frogs feel more comfortable. The reason they feel more comfortable is that they know they have a nearby hiding place should they need it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This gives them more confidence to venture out into the terrarium and allows you more opportunities to observe them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/poison-arrow-frog.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Frank Cornelissen \/ Shutterstock<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Water Quality<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Quality water for amphibians<\/a> is of paramount importance for amphibians. Their skin is semi-permeable which allows them to more easily absorb substances through their skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Clean, dechlorinated water<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Any type of chemical (soap for example) is easily absorbed by an amphibian while being held by a person who simply didn’t wash their hands properly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In addition to this, chemicals in tap water will have a negative effect on the health of your pet dart frog. Most municipal water treatment plants utilize chlorine and\/or chloramines to treat your drinking water before it leaves the plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Chlorine levels are adjusted to remain in the water for the period of time it takes water to go from the treatment plant to your house. It’s there for good reason too – it kills pathogens that get in the water lines while en route to your house.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It’s considered safe for human consumption but using it on your small amphibian can have adverse effects. For this reason, always treat your tap water with a water conditioner like ReptiSafe (or similar water dechlorination agent). Springwater or RO (reverse osmosis) is great as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Remember this when filling foggers and misting systems with water. Any water that comes into contact with your frogs needs to be clean, dechlorinated water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Plants, Branches, and Decorations<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The use of plants and branches is recommended as they provide hiding places for your poison-dart frogs. Generally, the more hiding places you have the more comfortable your frogs feel. As they feel more comfortable, they’re more likely to venture out into their enclosure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The type of plants you can use is mostly limited to the environment in which they’re placed. Tropical plants that do well in high humidity are your best options for this type of setup. You can find a number of accessories for your frog’s habitat<\/a> to help fill the space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, the size of your dart frog matters. The bigger and heavier they are, the more easily they will crush your plants. Moss will make a great covering for the substrate, rocks, and branches, but the plants you pick need to withstand the weight of the frog it’s supporting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A list of plants that do well in Dendro<\/em> enclosures:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Clean, dechlorinated water<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- ABG Mix, Moss, and Leaf Litter<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- A day and night cycle of 12 hours each. UVB is not required.<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Humidity range between 80% – 100%<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Substrate<\/strong> – Because poison dart frogs require high humidity, it’s important to utilize your substrate to retain water in order to hold higher humidity within the cage. But the substrate can’t hold water to the point where it becomes soggy and stagnant. Those conditions promote mold and bacteria growth. You’ll want to utilize moss on top of an ABG mix<\/a> on top of a drainage layer. Leaf-litter is nice as well.<\/li>
![\"Dart](\"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/dart-frogs-in-terrarium.jpg\")
![\"Dendrobates](\"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/dendrobates-auratus.jpg\")
![\"Dendrobates](\"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/dendrobates-tinctorius.jpg\")
![\"Dendrobates](\"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/dendrobates-leucomelas.jpg\")