{"id":151,"date":"2018-04-01T00:48:28","date_gmt":"2018-04-01T00:48:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/?p=151"},"modified":"2022-02-24T20:33:34","modified_gmt":"2022-02-24T20:33:34","slug":"safe-water-for-amphibians","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.frogpets.com\/safe-water-for-amphibians\/","title":{"rendered":"A Complete Guide on Safe Water For Amphibians"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Finding the best water for your amphibian can be a daunting task. With pH levels, minerals, and water hardness, it’s easy to feel uncertain whether or not you’re providing your pet with the best water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Have no fear, I’m here to help. I’ll share some basic knowledge about water and, of course, amphibians. By the end of this guide, you’ll be confident you’re providing a good, clean source of water for your pet frogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It boils down to a few factors – toxins, pH levels, and minerals. Toxins in water are things like chlorine, ammonia, and excessive heavy metals that are harmful to amphibians. The pH levels (the measure of alkalinity and acidity) should be neutral. Finally, ensure the water is not void of naturally-occurring minerals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But don’t let the previous paragraph oversimplify this topic. It’s important to understand how the different elements affect amphibians and what you can do to provide the best water conditions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This guide is mainly geared towards frogs and toads but it applies to most amphibians as well. Having said that, all amphibians are different, and optimal water conditions may vary depending on the species you’re caring for. Still, this guide covers most <\/em>amphibians, not just frogs!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why Amphibians Need Clean Water<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Before we uncover the optimal water source for amphibians, we need to understand why it’s important in the first place. To answer this question, we need to take a closer look at amphibians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most amphibians not only breathe through lungs but they breathe through their skin as well [1]<\/a><\/sup>. Amphibians have a thin, membranous skin containing a complex network of blood vessels where respiratory gases are diffused. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To put it simply, absorb oxygen in the water that comes in contact with their skin<\/strong>. As you might have guessed, toxins can be absorbed too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chlorine, pesticides, heavy metals, and chloramine are detrimental to amphibians. Because of this, it’s important to provide them with clean, toxin-free water. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tap water, depending on where you live, might contain chloramine and other chemicals. We will take a look at the common sources of water in the section below and determine which is best and how to condition water to make it suitable for amphibians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Qualities of Good Water for Amphibians<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Now that we know why clean, toxin-free water is important, let’s take a look at the water qualities which are optimal for amphibians. Aside from removing harmful toxins, the pH levels and water hardness, or minerals, are the main contributing factors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH Levels<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

pH stands for “Potential of Hydrogen” and refers to the measure of alkalinity and acidity of water. These levels are measured on a scale of 1 – 14. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lower numbers mean the water is high in acidity while higher numbers mean the water is more alkaline or “basic”. Water with a pH of 7 is considered neutral, which is the preferred and recommended level for most amphibians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This can fluctuate within 1 point up or down and, for the most part, will prove habitable for your pets. Some species prefer a pH around 6.5  but the general consensus amongst hobbyists is this; A neutral pH level (between 6.5 – 7.5) is optimal for most<\/em> amphibians.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water Hardness<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

You’ve probably heard people mention “hard water” or “soft water.” When someone refers to the hardness, they’re talking about the overall mineral content. The mineral most associated with hard water is calcium. Soft water has fewer minerals while hard water has more. Finally, hardness is measured in degrees of hardness<\/em> or “dGH”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is very little research on the effects of water hardness on amphibians. A study conducted by M.T. Horne and W. A. Dunson in 1995 shed some light on the effects of pH, naturally-occurring metals, and water hardness for wood frogs and Jefferson salamander larvae [2]<\/a><\/sup> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The objective: test the effects of those water conditions over a period of 7 days and 28 days. Hard water increased the wood frog’s survivability while soft water had a negative effect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While these findings suggest hard water is better, that’s not exactly the case. This study was conducted with the reproduction of larval amphibians in mind. It also doesn’t specifically target water hardness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH and naturally-occurring metals were variables as well. Regardless, water with no minerals can have a negative effect on amphibians<\/strong> and it’s not something they naturally live in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps the best method to determine the preferred water hardness of your amphibian is to examine an accurate water-hardness map. Research the species you’re keeping to find their native location and learn what types of water they live in. Is it soft water or water high in minerals?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Water<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

If you’re unable to find sufficient data for your amphibian, I suggest using\u00a0slight water hardness between 2 – 3.5 grains per gallon<\/strong>. Amphibians tend to do well in soft water or “slightly hard water” around 2 dGH. The best method for testing water hardness is to get a digital water quality meter<\/a>. They are cheap and, more the most part, accurate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do not use water softeners that replace calcium and magnesium with sodium chloride! Hard water minerals, in small amounts, are good for amphibians and so are salts. But replacing calcium and magnesium with salt (sodium chloride) can lead to a dehydrated amphibian.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Common Water Sources for Pet Frogs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

At this point, we know why toxin-free water is important and we have an understanding of optimal pH levels, salts and minerals, and water hardness. Now let’s look at different sources of water and determine whether or not they are suitable for amphibians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No matter which source you get water from, it’s a good idea to test the water before placing your amphibian into it. This can be accomplished by using an aquarium water test kit. It’s an inexpensive way to test the water and ensure your pets are in a safe environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

API is a trusted brand and their freshwater master test kit<\/a> tests for ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites as well as measures the water’s pH levels. If, however, you need to test the water for a different chemical like ammonia, you will need to find a different test kit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tap Water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Whether or not your tap water is safe for amphibians largely depends on where in the world you live. Many cities monitor their water quality regularly but it’s important to remember that this water is intended for human usage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chemicals like fluoride and chloramine are used to purify water and, in small doses, are considered safe for human consumption but they can be harmful to amphibians, especially fully-aquatic frogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I suggest calling your city to find out everything that goes into their water supply. One chemical to watch out for is chloramine. Unlike chlorine, which dissipates over a short period of time, chloramine remains in the water for longer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia, you have a few options in removing it from your tap water. Amphibian-safe water conditioners claim to remove chloramine while boiling water for 20 minutes is said to remove it as well.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If your water just has chlorine in it, you don’t need a water conditioner at all. All you need to do is let the water sit out for 24 hours<\/strong> and the chlorine will evaporate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can speed up the process by aerating the water. A circulating pump or literally stirring the water will create air bubbles that help carry chlorine to the top of the water and into the air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well Water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

There is not a cut-and-dry answer for this one since the quality of well-water, much like tap water, depends on the area you live in. The only sure-fire way is to test your well-water<\/strong> and adjust the pH and water hardness as needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some people shock treat well water with chlorine, putting it into the same bracket as municipal tap water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you do have well water, you or your family members probably know what is in the water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distilled Water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Distilled water is essentially 100% water with zero impurities and no minerals. Having pure water is great in some cases but amphibians need water with trace minerals and a neutral pH level. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Because of this, I do not recommend distilled water unless you reconstitute the water with minerals or you’re using it in a misting or fogging system.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  • Great for misting\/fogging systems<\/li>
  • Don’t use it for fully aquatic species<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    You can use calcium chloride and magnesium sulfate, as well as other commercial products, to add minerals back into the distilled water. This will increase the water hardness and in most cases, it will affect the pH levels too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    As always, be sure and test the water before introducing your amphibian to it. Some people have resorted to making their own mixture of minerals but because I have not tested these ‘recipes’ I will not suggest them here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In short, distilled water is good for misting because it won’t leave calcium deposits on a glass terrarium. Because it’s not your frog’s main source of water, they’ll be fine.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bottled Water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Using bottled water is, for the most part, safe for amphibians. Toxins are removed through a series of filtration systems like “activated carbon filters” and “anion exchange water softening treatment”. Reverse osmosis is even listed as one of the methods used by many of the top name-brand companies. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Once cleaned, minerals like calcium and magnesium are added back into the water. Some companies even claim their water is neutral in pH or slightly alkaline. Don’t trust them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    That all sounds great but companies stretch the truth and flat-out lie in some cases. During my research on bottled water, I came across an interesting video that tests the pH levels of a handful of different bottled waters. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The results aren’t terrible but they’re far from perfect. The video, while not pertaining to amphibians, is closely related and definitely worth watching.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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